It feels like every week there’s a new theory about the “correct” way to wash your hair. Some say wash it as little as possible, others recommend washing every day. Some claim you should skip washing for a month to reset your scalp, while others insist on shampooing your entire head twice. It never ends!
So, what is the absolute truth when it comes to washing your hair? Unfortunately, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. It depends heavily on your specific hair type and needs. The good news is that this guide will help point you in the right direction.
How Often Should You Wash Your Hair?
So, how often should you wash your hair, really? Well, that depends!
Straight Hair
For finer, straighter hair, the sweet spot is usually every two to three days. There’s a common myth that overwashing your hair strips the scalp of its natural oils and causes your body to overproduce sebum, creating a vicious, greasy cycle. In reality, your scalp does not operate on a feedback loop. Oil production largely depends on factors like genetics, hormones, and age. That said, you should still avoid overwashing to prevent disrupting your scalp’s microbiome or lipid barrier. If your hair becomes oily too quickly, consider speaking with a dermatologist to discuss remedies containing active ingredients that can help restore long-term scalp health.
Curly Hair
Curly hair grows out of angled follicles in a spiraled pattern, making it harder for oil to travel down the hair shaft. This allows you to go longer between washes. In fact, your scalp’s oil acts as a natural lubricant for your hair, so washing too soon removes oil before it reaches the lengths and ends, causing unnecessary dryness. Curls are also more prone to damage due to structural weaknesses at each bend, so overwashing can lead to significant breakage, especially since hair is most fragile when wet. After about a week, you’ll likely see diminishing returns, along with excessive product and oil buildup, as well as unpleasant odors.
Other Hair Types
There’s a whole spectrum between these two extremes, with most hair types finding an ideal wash cycle every three to four days. Finding the balance between a healthy scalp and a clean scalp can be delicate, so it’s important to pay attention to how your hair responds to different routines and adjust accordingly. It may take some experimentation to get it right!
The Best Water Temperature for Washing Hair
As comforting as a hot shower can be, the ideal water temperature for washing your hair is lukewarm, around 100°F. Another common myth claims that warm water opens the hair cuticles and cold water seals them back up. In reality, water at any temperature penetrates the hair shaft, causing it to swell and lifting the cuticle to allow moisture in. Cold water may temporarily make the cuticle lie flatter, but it will not provide any long-term benefits, so there is no need to indulge in an ice-cold rinse at the end of every shower.
Hair cuticles are actually more responsive to pH levels than to temperature, with the ideal range being roughly 4.5 to 5.5. For this reason, it is important to assess your water quality and consider investing in a hard water filter for your showerhead if needed.
Shampoo Do’s and Don’ts
The key player in your hair-washing routine is the washing agent itself. With all the product varieties and approaches being thrown around, it can be overwhelming to find one that works for you.
Do’s:
- Use a shampoo appropriate for your hair type and be prepared for some trial and error. Shampoos range from more cleansing to more moisturizing, so you can choose one based on your scalp’s specific needs.
- Massage your scalp gently but thoroughly. Remember, your hair is most fragile when wet, but you still want to cleanse effectively. Investing in a scalp brush can help distribute products more evenly.
- Focus shampoo on the scalp, not the ends. Shampoo will naturally run down your lengths during rinsing, which is usually all the cleansing most of your hair needs.
Don’ts:
- Avoid using harsh shampoos too often. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo—sparingly for thin hair, more often for thicker hair—can help remove heavy product buildup like butters and silicones. This allows you to use a gentler shampoo on a regular basis.
- Don’t scrub aggressively. Again, your hair is fragile!
- Refrain from skipping conditioner after shampooing. It’s crucial to replenish the moisture lost during cleansing for shinier, smoother hair.
Should You Wash Your Hair Before Coloring?
To answer the age-old question: yes, you should wash your hair before dyeing it. However, it shouldn’t be done immediately beforehand. A small amount of oil buildup on your scalp can help protect it from sensitivity to bleach or other chemicals, so washing your hair anywhere from 12 hours to two days before a color appointment is ideal. Luckily, salon hair dye is high quality and poses minimal irritation risk, so there’s no need to let your scalp get overly dirty.
Additional Hair Washing Tips
With so many variables in the hair-washing landscape, be prepared to adjust and adapt to create the perfect routine for your hair. Free samples and travel sizes are your friends. Test products before committing to full sizes to make sure you’re making the right choice. Beyond products, tools like gentle brushes designed for wet hair and frizz-reducing microfiber towels can also help you get the most out of your wash days.
Master the Art of Hair Care at Brown Beauty Barber School
Conquering your own wash routine is an achievement in itself, but if you’re ready to take your skills to the next level and officially become a hair-washing and styling pro, Brown Beauty Barber School is here to guide you. Our expert instructors teach everything from foundational techniques to advanced styling, helping you gain the confidence and knowledge to succeed in the hair industry. Ready to start your journey? Learn more and enroll today.